Nestled in the shadow of Southwark Cathedral, just a hop, skip and a jump from the iconic London Bridge, lies one of the capital's top destinations for tourists, and a spot that locals adore too - Borough Market.
Today, it’s as famous as La Boqueria in Barcelona or Mercato Centrale in Florence; a vibrant hub that showcases artisan food and flavours of the world. But there’s a story behind the market that many visitors know nothing about - a tale that’s long and chequered and can be traced back to medieval times.
Let’s take a closer look at how this incredible spot went from a historic trading post to a modern-day food lover’s paradise, mirroring the history of London (cosmopolitan, fascinating and forever changing).
Early Trade
The origins of Borough Market can be traced back more than a thousand years, making it one of London’s oldest markets. There’s no one single date we can pinpoint but historians believe that as early as the 11th century traders were selling goods in an area south of the river.
And, of course, the market’s location was no accident. The site stood at the southern end of London Bridge - the only point at which you could cross the River Thames at that time - which made it a focal point for merchants, travellers and locals.
Farmers from Kent, Surrey and Sussex hauled their produce here - after all, London was a city that was constantly growing, and demand was high - and by the 13th century, Borough Market was vital to the food chain. Records show that you could buy fish, livestock and grain, but that it was also a fine place to meet socially (and swap gossip!)
Chaos and Change
Borough Market’s history has seen some tumultuous times. By the 18th century, traffic caused by the swelling market crowds around the southern approach to London Bridge grew so wild that Parliament intervened. In 1754, the market was officially closed. But the traders and the local community were not ready to let their beloved market die and began a fightback.
Within the year, a group of determined parishioners raised money to purchase a nearby patch of land known as the “Triangle,” where the market was re-established. This site—bewtween what is is now Borough High Street and Southwark Street—is where the market stands today.
And, of course, Borough Market grew and prospered, serving as a wholesale market to supply London’s shops, restaurants and street vendors. Once the railway arrived, the area was further transformed and today, you can see the evidence - just look up to see the beautiful ironwork and Victorian-style railway arches.
But times move on and, by the end of World War Two, the nation’s shopping habits and the rise of the supermarket were going to change everything. But by the mid-20th century, changing shopping habits and the rise of supermarkets began to erode the market’s vitality
From Wholesale Market to Foodie Mecca
By the late 20th century, Borough Market was in serious decline. Many of its wholesale traders were moving away or closing their businesses, and the market’s future looked uncertain. But a twist of fate meant all would not be lost. In the 1990’s, a new group of artisan food producers and chefs passionate about ingredients began to think about how much potential this area could have. And their vision - transforming Borough Market from a wholesale operation into a public marketplace dedicated to high-quality, small-scale food production - would soon come to pass.
Over time, it became revitalised, and was also aided by the capital’s major appetite for artisan ingredients and new, international cuisines. By the beginning of the 21st century, the market had gained a reputation as the beating heart of foodie culture. Celebrity chef events, pop-ups and festive events made it a ‘go to’ destination in London, and not just for locals but tourists across the globe.
Borough Market Today
Walking through Borough Market today is a true feast for the senses. The atmosphere is buzzy, with throngs of people everywhere, and all around are sounds and smells - sizzling meats, ageing cheeses, just-baked bread and freshly-cut flowers. Traders’ voices cry out, stalls are simply heaving with produce and it’s a true assault on the eyes and ears!
The market itself is divided into different areas—such as the Green Market, Three Crown Square, and the Jubilee Market—each with its own character and special delights. But it’s the sheer variety of produce that can overwhelm - this is a place to enjoy Mexican empanadas, Indian Roti, French foie gras wraps and Calabrian salami, as well as stumble upon a bewildering amount of specialty foods.
For instance, Neal’s Yard - it’s a place cheese lovers will swoon over. Its dairy offers fine British fromage (think Blue Stilton, Cornish Yarg and Wensleydale with cranberries). Each is carefully sourced from small farms and then, more often than not, aged to perfection in Neal’s Yard’s own maturing rooms.
For those with a sweet tooth, artisan bakers like Bread Ahead are famous for their soft, fluffy donuts, filled with vanilla custard and raspberry jam, and the German Bakery is well worth standing in line for, if you’re a fan of salty pretzels and poppy seed cake. Pop round the corner to Monmouth Coffee, a long-standing favourite amongst caffeine lovers, to wash your baked goods down with a cup of their rich, aromatic coffee - an ideal ‘pick me up’ as you’re wandering.
Fish and seafood lovers can indulge in oysters freshly shucked at Richard Haward’s Oyster stand, a family business that has been harvesting these treats off the Essex coast for over seven generations. Head to ‘Fish!’ for a quintessential British lunch - beer battered cod and chunky chips, walk in the direction of the Ginger Pig if you’re a fan of pulled pork, or hunt out ‘Bomba’ if you're hankering for a plate of flavourful, traditional paella.
Seasonal and Sustainable
Borough Market is also a wonderful place to shop for seasonal produce - the first asparagus of spring, summer berries, Thanksgiving turkeys or winter mushrooms - and many of the stalls buy their produce from local farms, so you’re assured not just that it will be fresh but that you’re helping out supporting businesses and the ‘farm to table’ ethos.
And what makes Borough Market special is that whilst it’s predominantly a place to eat and shop, it’s also a community hub. Throughout the year, it holds events that include cooking demonstrations, seasonal festivals and talks that highlight its commitment to food education and sustainability. And if you do find the time to chat to traders, and hear their stories, you’ll undoubtedly find it very satisfying, because it gives you a deeper appreciation of the care involved in what they do.
From Then to Now
To sum up, Borough Market is a true testament to London’s ability to move with the times, juxtaposing tradition with innovation. Traders arrive before dawn, just as they did centuries ago, walking along the cobblestones that date back to the Middle Ages, this is a place that’s continually developing its story. To walk here is to immerse yourself in the spirit of London - its history, its traditions, and its food culture.
Just make sure not to eat a large breakfast before you arrive! Take the tube to London Bridge (northern line), come out and follow the crowds and the smells. It’s that simple!
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