So you’ve come to London and want to visit a grand spot? Well, there’s more than one palace in the British capital in fact, and today we’re visiting one in north London…a beautiful place close to green and leafy Muswell Hill that few tourists have heard about and even fewer visit.
It’s Alexandra Palace, or “Ally Pally” as Londoners call it - a huge park and entertainment centre situated high on a hill, and originally designed as a People's Palace for culture and leisure. Want to know more? Then keep reading.
The Early History of Ally Pally
Plans for a great public pleasure palace in the area were first drawn up in the mid‑19th century, inspired by the success of the famous Crystal Palace in south London. A gentleman named Owen Jones proposed the building of a “Palace of the People” in the late 1850s - what he envisaged was a majestic iron and glass structure built within a large open green area called Tottenham Wood Farm.
For whatever reason, his idea never got off the ground but, some years later, the Alexandra Palace Company was formed and the project renamed in honour of the new Princess of Wales, Alexandra of Denmark. In fact, it was built using materials from the 1862 International Exhibition in Kensington (drawing on the Victorian habit of reusing existing exhibition structures).
Architects Alfred Meeson and John Johnson oversaw the construction of an enormous building which opened on Queen Victoria’s 54th birthday, the 24th May 1873.. It was a day of great celebrations, with fireworks, concerts and huge crowds in attendance. Seen as north London’s answer to Crystal Palace, it was marketed as a spot that would offer “intellectual improvement and physical recreation” for all classes. No-one foresaw what catastrophe lay ahead…
The Great Fire and the Subsequent Rebuild
Just over two weeks after it opened, an enormous fire caught hold of Ally Pally, burning it almost entirely to the ground. Only the outer walls and a few features were left standing.
Incredibly, despite this, funds were raised once more and a new (and some argue much better designed) palace - courtesy of John Johnson - was built and reopened on 1st May 1875. This time, the Palace included a Palm Court, a Great Hall, concert room, art galleries, a library, and even a theatre. Moreover, the design included refreshment areas and an extensive space for dining. All of this was under one roof!
By 1900, however, the owners were threatening to sell the Pally but a group of concerned individuals, headed by Henry Burt, organised a campaign to raise funds. They wanted the site to be kept for the benefit of the public and they got their way. In fact, Ally Pally was actually used in the first World War by the government, housing Belgian refugees and later interning German citizens.
London Calling - the BBC Comes to Town
But it was in the 1930’s that Alexandra Palace really came into its own. Remember, this was at a time when mass media was in its infancy and it was the ‘wireless’ that people turned to for news. But when the BBC set up shop, using the grounds as the base for the world’s first regular high‑definition television service, Ally Pally really shone.
High above sea level, the space was perfect for tall mast and transmitting. Quickly, the tea rooms and banqueting rooms were transformed into two studios, with two control rooms and camera and lighting equipment brought in. On 2nd November 1936, it was inaugurated. Truly, It was a pioneering moment and Ally Pally’s role in bringing early television to the masses will always be its ‘claim to fame’.
Alexandra Palace’s Architecture and Design
Alexandra Palace is a grand Victorian structure, a mixture of iron, glass and masonry in an ‘Italianate’ style with eclectic decorative touches. The long façade has towers, arcades and a large central rose window, which gives it a rather dramatic skyline profile. Indeed, it’s visible from many parts of north London.
Ally Pally’s interior was designed for huge crowds, - the Great Hall alone could seat 14,000 individuals and even (back in the day) was home to an enormous Willis organ. At the western end lay the Palm Court - the Victorians were fascinated with indoor gardens and so the entrance was filled with light, and decorated with glass and iron structures, as well as detailing.
The theatre, which used London’s Drury Lane (found in Covent Garden) as a prototype, could seat around 3,000 and had rather advanced stage machinery that let performers appear, disappear and fly through the air, making it a popular space for melodramas and pantomimes alike. The bold colours used centred around grey, blue and gold, set on deep brown backgrounds, making it rather eye-catching.
Another Fire and Another Rebuild
Astonishingly, in 1980, catastrophe struck once more when on 10th July 1980, another fire broke out and destroyed around a third of the Palace, including the Great Hall. But by now, Londoners loved this place too much to give up and more funds were raised. After an enormous restoration, it opened again in 1988. In recent years, it’s seen redevelopment and conservation projects. The once derelict theatre has been given a new lease of life, there’s an year-round ice rink which is incredibly popular with kids and adults alike, and the venue is used for concerts, darts championships, pop-up events and, of course, the legendary annual November 5th firework display.
Ally Pally’s Surroundings
Alexandra Palace sits within Alexandra Park which, centuries ago, stretched for hundreds of acres and today is still a large expanse of greenery in north London. The park has been designated a Local Nature Reserve and a Site of Borough Importance for Nature Conservation, giving visitors the chance to experience its wildlife and biodiversity.
Undoubtedly though, one of the things that’s most amazing about this place is the panoramic views you have when standing on its terrace, including a coveted protected sightline towards St. Paul’s Cathedral. On clear days, because it's so high, you can pick out many of the city’s landmarks and the combination of a historic building, green lawns, woodland and lake gives the area the feel of a large urban park.
What Can You Do There?
Today, Alexandra Palace offers a jam-packed calendar for culture vultures, as well as everyday events for locals. The Great Hall and West Hall host large‑scale concerts, exhibitions and conferences, attracting major touring acts, trade shows and festivals year round
There are also bars, a pub and pop-up catering for big events, so it’s easy to have a long afternoon there (lunch and skate) or a fun evening (dinner and a show). Offerings include theatre, opera, comedy, film screenings and concerts, not to mention the charming Christmas markets in December.
And if you just want to go exploring, the park is popular for walking, running, picnicking and enjoying the lake and wooded areas, with paths that link to nearby neighbourhoods like Muswell Hill and Crouch End. Because it’s a nature reserve, it’s easy to spot birds and unusually ‘wild’ habitats, even though you’re really not that far from central London.
In terms of getting there, the nearest tube is Turnpike Lane (Piccadilly Line) but rather than walk from there, it’s easier to catch the W3 bus outside the station, which will take you straight there and saves you a walk up the hill.
Finally, if you’re looking for somewhere to stay in London, we’re happy to welcome you here at La Gaffe Hotel in Hampstead. We’re located in the leafy north of the city, where our family-owned and family-run guest accommodation is going strong after quite a few decades.
We offer competitive rates, a warm and personal welcome and our famous cappuccino (made by our beloved general manager!) To book a room directly, either go to our website or give us a call on 020 7435-8965.
We look forward to meeting you!